Don't Buy a Used Bike
Without Checking These Things

Original registration book (book) matches chassis & engine number

Cross-check every digit carefully — altered numbers = stolen bike

CNIC of seller matches the registration book owner

If names don't match, ask for transfer documents

Token tax is paid and up to date

Unpaid token = your problem after purchase

Chassis number on frame matches documents

Usually stamped on the frame near the steering stem — shine a torch

Engine number on engine matches documents

Stamped on the engine casing — look carefully with a torch

No challan (traffic fines) pending — verify at excise office or online

Outstanding challans become the new owner's liability

Cold start — engine starts easily on first or second kick

Hard cold starts = worn piston rings, weak compression or carb issues

Engine idles smoothly — no roughness or hunting

Rough idle = carb problem, dirty air filter, or valve issues

No knocking, tapping or unusual noise from engine

Tapping = valve clearance issues. Knocking = serious engine wear

No oil leaks around engine, gaskets or drain plug

Put a white tissue under the bike and check for dark oil spots

Engine oil color — dark brown but not black sludge

Black thick oil = never changed. Milky oil = coolant leak (serious)

Exhaust smoke color — should be clear or very light

Blue smoke = burning oil. White smoke = head gasket. Black = rich mixture

Chain and sprocket — not excessively stretched or worn teeth

A worn chain set costs PKR 2,500–4,000 to replace — use as a bargaining point

No visible bends, cracks or welds on the main frame

Crouch down and look along the frame from front and rear

Paint is even — no mismatched panels, overspray or fresh paint on one side only

One freshly painted side usually means that side was in an accident

Both footpegs, mirrors and handlebar ends undamaged

Bent pegs or missing mirror ends usually mean the bike has been dropped

Fork legs are straight — no bends or oil leaks from forks

Bent forks = accident. Fork seals leaking = immediate repair needed

Bike sits straight — not leaning to one side when on centre stand

Lean = bent frame or bent axle = walk away

Front brake feels firm — not spongy or pulling to one side

Spongy disc brake = air in line. Drum brakes should engage before lever hits bar

Rear brake works firmly — bike stops in a straight line

Squealing under braking = worn pads, dirt or warped disc

Tyre tread is adequate — more than 2mm depth all around

Bald tyres = PKR 2,000–4,000 per tyre to replace

No wobble in wheels — spin each wheel and check for play or wobble

Loose bearings or bent rim = dangerous and costly to fix

No flat spots, cracks or bulges in tyres

A bulge = tyre is about to fail — replace immediately

All lights work — headlight (high/low), tail, brake and indicators

Test every single one — replacements are cheap but time-consuming if wiring is bad

Horn works and is loud enough

A quiet or absent horn is actually a traffic violation in Pakistan

No loose, taped or burnt wiring visible under the seat or near battery

DIY wiring jobs = fire hazard and electrical gremlins for months

Speedometer and all instruments working correctly

Broken speedo cable or cluster is cheap to fix but shows neglect

Gearbox shifts smoothly through all gears — no false neutrals

Difficult gear changes = worn gearbox or clutch plates

No vibrations at cruising speed — handles straight with no pulling

Vibration = wheel balance. Pulling = bent forks or brake dragging

Clutch engages and disengages cleanly — no slipping under power

Slipping clutch = worn plates. Replacing clutch set costs PKR 1,500–3,000